Optimization of Polysorbate 80 and Sorbitan Monooleate 80 as Emulsifiers in Foundation Makeup Containing Ethyl Cinnamate

Abstract

Foundation is a type of decorative makeup, and some typically also
include a sunscreen agent. Ethyl cinnamate is one of potential organic
essential oils for sunscreens. Nevertheless, there is little study on ethyl
cinnamate usage in cosmetics, particularly in oil-in-water foundation cream.
Although using an emulsifier in oil-in-water foundation at a higher
concentration may not guarantee higher oil phase recovery, using an
optimum combination of emulsifiers such as polysorbate 80 and sorbitan
monooleate 80 could be the right solution. This study aims to optimize
polysorbate 80 and sorbitan monooleate 80 in cream foundation using ethyl
cinnamate as an active ingredient. Ethyl cinnamate has an effective ability to
protect facial skin from ultraviolet radiation and is safe to use. The
optimization used simplex lattice design with Design-Expert® version 10.0.1.
The evaluated parameters were the value of pH, viscosity, spreadability,
adhesion, and Sun Protection Factor (SPF) value. Stability and skin irritation
tests for optimum formula were also conducted. Revlon Colorstay Foundation
(National Food and Drug Agency of Indonesia number NA18140300519)
served as a positive control. The optimum ratio of polysorbate 80 and
sorbitan monooleat 80 were 9.565 and 1.435 respectively with physical
properties and parameters as follow: pH 6.478+0.008, viscosity
5844.2+31.82 cPs, spreadability 6.16+0.11 cm, adhesion 3.346+0.14 seconds,
SPF Value 22.385+0.48, and no irritation symptoms. The foundation created
was physically stable, and did not irritate the skin, making it safe to wear. It
also provides effective protection from UV radiation.
Key words: foundation, SPF, cinnamate